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| Editor's Note: This guide was written in 1997. Though my tastes may have changed, most of these restaurants are still the same. Kind Dining in Salt Lake City, Utah SLiCk City's best nourishment values. Independent reviews by you know who. ¢
Cheap. Leave Satiated for $5 to $10 before. Tip per person Best of Utah. Indicates Best of Utah (www.bestofutah.com) status as judged by the Private Eye Weekly readers poll Please call the restaurant for serving hours and reservations
Dimitri's Coffe Shop
A Greek run diner, not out of place on an old SNL
episode; no checks or plastic. George's is the closest thing to
mother's milk for nearby U of U students, (stay away on hung over
Saturday mornings). George has ruled his grill for a number of years
and servers, even his own daughters, must politely wait to place
their orders. This ensures a consistently tasty meal found no where
else.
Number two in gastronomy's crown, the place is
un-rushed, but can be quite noisy. It's not the Arizona Biltmore,
not up-scale, trendy or alternative, but a combo all three. Rest
assured that you'll get plenty to eat. Enough for Homer (the meal
he invented between Brunch and Lunch).
The big scoop here is their relatively new, approximately 3 years old, and low profile on-sight brewery. It "Rocks the Kazba" (our editor says its hands-down the best brewery in the state). I especially like the Pilsner. It comes in a traditional pilsner glass, a nice touch allowing for a full 16 ounces of beer and room for the head. Stick your beak in this pint and get an alluring malt aroma, plus you'll look sophisticated. The brewmeister, Pete Kruger a twenty-something chap honed his skills at the Northwest's semi-big Full-Sail Brewing Company. The beers are really faultless in my book. Plus they took the American hefeweisen award in last years Great American Brewing Festival. Also recommended: Red Rock Brewing Company, Bombay
House, The New Yorker
The menu changes a lot, but it's all good. Gastronomy,
a leading Salt Lake restaurant company exhibits its hallmarks of
fresh quality ingredients and generously sized portions (their huge
for a nouvelle thing). Most of the servers have been here forever.
There's a wine list for even the most pretentious. A smaller Cafe
is more for grazing, but still really classy. By New York standards
this place is a "bahgan". In SLiCk City it can't be beat at any
price.
Desert is definitely a centerpiece here. A lit bakery case is the first thing you see when you enter. To the left is an area reserved just for sweets and coffee drinks. The deserts themselves are large, rich and delicious. Turtles, torts and the like. The place holds over the spirit and local of the late Upper Crust which had a similar thing going in the Eighties, until prohibitioners railed against its bourbon mocha cake. Oh sweet, sweet Utah. Also recommended:
Therefore you will find good fish at all of Gastronomy's restaurants. Preparation of fish at "The Broiler" is usually quite simple. The restaurant creates a memorable dining experience by excelling in the details like its unmatched spicy clam chowder and fresh Pacific Bay bread (a meal in itself). Add deserts like chocolate decadence, a true full-service bar and a professional wait staff and you have a well rounded meal. No this isn't Frisco, but they have a lot in common. Also Recommended: The Market Street Grill
Oh yes, the food. Flavors and sauces are the buzz words here. Delicious sauces that you won't find in 1000 miles; several moles and incredible enchilada sauces. The Cardenas family which runs the place has a heritage of fine mexican cuisine. I understand they cooked for the governor of Texas at one time. Later they ran the Casa Grande here in town. Son, Ramon Jr. opened a small diner on third west over 10 years ago. This memorable place burned down and the restaurant was moved to its present location. Two blocks from the Triad center, this place caught on with the art and advertising community. Soon the family followed and the deal was sealed. A Blue Iguana opened in Arrow Press Square, but
now it's run by a lawyer, not a multi-generational gastronomical
legacy and isn't nearly as good (in my humble opinion, Dano.)
The menu offers ample choices of pasta, fish, beef, and lamb. The ultra-rich lasagna has never let me down. Pay attention to the specials here, for Baci's attention to the details never lapses. Specials are not thrown together at the last minute, you have a multi-million dollar corporation planning exactly what to enjoy during the Venice Festival. Recently I had a carpaccio and crab appetizer that was truly memorable. Don't forget to have tiramisu with your date, you know she wants it. Tiramisu here is as rich, cool and creamy as anything in Utah. On the other side of the stained glass is Club
Baci. It's the Baci experience in a younger, hip-trendy- and-out-to-make-the-scene
package. The Private Eye's Best
of Utah readers poll voted the bartenders at Baci as the best.
No disagreement here. We do know they make the best strawberry daiquiri.
Me and a jackmormon have looked around and we can't find a better
one.
David like his kitchen has been around. The restaurant
has been located in more than one private club. David himself has
worked in New York City and the couldn't be hipper Boulder, Colorado.
David is a showman and the consummate host. He is glad to welcome
you to his restaurant and recommend a meal for your table. This
can be a fun experience but watch out. David has extravagant tastes
and you may have way more food that you need. I recommend that you
look at the menu and decide for yourself. Either way you are in
for a great meal. "You like spicy?"
Fresh ingredients and delicious preparations aren't
enough. In Japan, presentation is everything. You'll find all the
right details here; from the lacquered dinner boxes to the tightly
woven bandannas worn by the Japanese and American sushi chefs. Don't
be frightened by the big American males behind the sushi bar --
they're nice guys who know their business well. Ginza is a very
un-Utah kind of place that you should love.
The feeling is small and mostly hole-in-the-wall,
but the menu is large and diverse. Whatever you have don't pass
up the un-cooked spring roll appetizer. They are pork and shrimp
with spicy asian vegetables in provocatively rubbery un-cooked rice
wrapper and served with a peanutty hoison sauce. Many seem to like
topped bowls of noodles. A big enough portion to merit "Jethro"
distinction.
You can get imported Indian beers or try a mango
lassi. Particularly engaging is the all-you-can-eat lunch buffet
at $5.95 (a standard indian restaurant offering done better than
most). This buffet can be a frustrating experience. The food is
all so well-spiced and filling that after one plate your body is
already reeling from the ayruvedic spices. You want to eat more
but karma says no. The solution; come back for dinner, take home
your leftovers and savor them for as long as possible. Pizza
Big
Apple Pizzeria fka Deloretto's
By pizza, I mean hand tossed New York style pie.
Koltenuk uses the best and freshest ingredients, many of which are
trucked right to his restaurant by an East coast distributor. Besides
the definitive New York pie, there are calzones and other pizzeria
standards. My brother-in-law, a native New Yorker with a big appetite,
ranks it near the top he has experienced through his travels. If
you know New York pie, you will too. Useless Trivia: a pizza box
from Delorettos was used to hide the Plaque of Kolob in favorite
Utah cult flick, Plan 10 from
outerspace . The very friendly owner John Nelson was going to
write you but thought it might be in-appropriate. I told him I would
take care of it:
While Cottonwood, Utah's Cottonbottom
stakes its claim as the originator of this garlic laden spectacle,
the Buzy Bee one-ups them. Apparently the two bar and grills at
one time had the same owner. This has changed and the Buzy Bee doesn't
even list their garlic burger on the menu. The Buzy Bee's garlic
burger is grilled garlic bread containing two garlic saturated beef
patties. The beef is the most fresh and tender I have had (its only
competition is Hires Drive-In). The tomato, lettuce and onions are
delicately thin sliced. The optional french fries are among the
best around. I was raised on the theory that good fries are "crispy"
and "shoestring". A french fry should be no thicker than those at
Mickey D's. Though these fries can be a little greasy, You know
they are home made. Horseradish and true Utah fry sauce complete
the meal. The Wasatch line of beers are only $1.50 a glass. Go once
and you'll be back. Remember the secret of the bees. BBQ
The
Sugarhouse Barbeque Company fka Redbones
Easily accessible to the the trend-setting east
side residents, its seventh east location is new and serviceable.
It lacks the funky fresh decor and relaxing setting of the competing
Bubbas
kna The Firehouse Grill, but it makes up for it with its friendly
service and smokers full of "Q". The ribs are incredible, the beef
and pork are great. Most meals come with side dishes, but come here
for the meat. The take-out orientation makes it easy to try a pulled
pork sandwich one day and a beef brisket the next. If you are taking
out I advise you to ask for extra bar-b-que sauce. This tarry brown
substance is un-like any you've had and if you are like me, you'll
want more.
I must warn you that these establishments are not
fine dining. Manny's qualifies for full dive-bar status. It does
however serve sandwiches in particular burgers and dogs smothered
with the coveted chili. The Tap room is a more camp Sugarhouse neighborhood
bar. Here the surely bartenders are seen hoisting up to 24 10 oz.
beers glasses between their arms and waddling to the rosy regulars.
Besides the chili you will find pickled eggs, pork rinds and Brandy
on the juke box.
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